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Liking that lower engine mount. Have power flex black inserts in mine, but been looking at the vibrant-technics mounts. Be interested to see how you get on with it.

What track is that? Looks awesome.

2 of my mates are running pugs. One is building a 106 16 valver with TB's, the other has a 306 with a turbo v6 (405 lump).

Personal opinion, I really wouldn't spend a huge amount of money on rear pads. The rear brakes do next to nothing on these cars. I run the cheapest of cheap pads in my track car (read £16 from local motor factors), they are hardly used after 4 hard track days, and my car stops on a sixpence.

Rad will support itself if the pipework is left in place.

Interestingly conducted the above test and in 1st gear with clutch completely depressed the car does start to creep at around 5k. Having bench bled the slave, and bled the clutch 3 times now, I'm going to strip the engine and gearbox out of the car and bench bleed the slave a second time. Only...

Unless it's stupid loud, then personally I'd give it a try. My car is loud, both exhaust and induction noise. Worst comes to worst you just have to short shift and lift a little around the mics.

@Pav 1st - at the first corner, left hander just after you join from the pits. It's on the inside left, so keep as far right as you can. 2nd - about 3/4 way round the track. Get to the end of the straight and you'll do a tight left hander. Then there is a sweeping right. Mic is on the inside of...

Got flagged for drive-by again. I got carried away chasing down my mate in his Mk1 Clio. Didn't get chance to swerve to other side of track to avoid sound meter. Interestingly also got told to "spread out" when I was too close to my mate.

Have a Tiger Avon race car I'm going to build as a pure track weapon. Have a brand new 2.0 Zetec crate engine with Jenvey Throttle Bodies and Omex 600 mgmt waiting to go on. If you are thinking of taking the plunge then now is the time to bag the bargains. If the one in the pic floats your boat...

Standard Renault clutch and slave.

Thanks - will give that a try. Slave was bench bled before fitting, and clutch is new genuine item (as is slave).

At this stage I want to rule out anything on my car which could be causing the problem.

Need some advice. Purchased a gearbox with a gripper diff installed from this forum some weeks ago. Got it fitted today, went out for a drive, and it has crunching into 3rd gear. Was advised it was a freshly reconditioned box, with 90 mins use. I've ensured the clutch is bled correctly (twice)...

Turbo will be a lot quieter than NA, so you will be fine for both.

I've heard the mobile apps are actually quite accurate. I know someone who has done side-by-side comparison with a calibrated sound meter and mobile was within 1db. Relatively speaking, they should be fine to measure static noise for track, but rarely is static reading the issue. Also...

Bedford is a nightmare track for noise. I did it few months ago in the clio and got called in for exceeding drive-by noise limits. At the time mine had a toyo manifold, and full K-Tec sport exhaust with decat. Also had a CDA induction. Bloke said that by the end of the day nearly 3/4 of the cars...

Should never lubricate wheel bolts, unless manufacturer recommends it (which most don't). Wheel bolt torque is calculated on dry and dirt free wheel nuts/bolts. Do a google search and make your own mind up, but I know someone who lost a wheel bolt at Cadwell and he'd just copper greased his...

Looks good, but I'd be worried about that copper spray getting into the wheel bolt thread. Did you mask them off or clean them up after?

Think you've made the right decision Tony, and I'm sure you'll enjoy your new purchase when you get hold of it.