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Consider a gripper diff also - difference is immense.

HI. Doing exactly the same as you. rear and front of cage are in the car, but the 4 floor plates not yet welded. Do you have better pics of how much of the original front bar you had to chop out (not the cage bar, the bar originally on the car that the steering column connects to)?

I have the compbrake top mounts on my KW V2's and they are fantastic quality. Fit is perfect. You won't go far wrong.

I know we've spoken about keeping NA in the past Tom, so was slightly surprised when I read you were contemplating turbo route. Personally I enjoy getting the maximum out of the NA engine, and concentrating on corner and exit speed, handling etc. However, can't blame you for wanting a nice rwd...

@Jminkley get an intercooler on the MX - it made a HUGE difference to my little 1.6 turbo MX. Great little track cars, and upset many a more expensive car. Completely different handling to the Clio - both great in their own way.

16" tyres are typically more expensive then a more widely used 15 or 17" tyre, and you'll also have more choice with 17' tyres. I'd personally stick with the norm

Thanks - keep me posted on progress :thumb:

For me it's the following 1. Content - huge amount of content which is easily accessible. 2. Interface - Once you get used to it the interface is top notch. I've seen freeview interfaces and the difference is huge. Sky is intuitive, smooth snd glitch free. 3. Boxes - Had it about a year and...

Yeah, I thought about that, but apparently the 1*2 pulley is quite a bit lighter, and adding in rotational mass then I would imagine there are gains to be had. Either way, ditching the aircon is a huge benefit.

2 cheap alternatives. 1 - gut the aircon pump so you are literally just left with the pulley - I've done this and used on lots of track days now. 2 - buy a 172/182 crank pulley and use a stretch belt to the alternator, completely removing the alternator setup - I've got this to try, and others...

Yep, I know GBS. I got the crate engine from them, plus a few other bits.

Any news on rear suspension setup with cage mount yet? Need to get my arse into gear and get my cup cage in.

Nice one - second run was spot on. Currently building a stripped out track purpose Tiger Avon with 180bhp crate engine Zetec with Jenvey throttle bodies. Looking forward to getting it on track in the summer. Like you say, expecting it to be like nothing else I've driven.

Yep, Tom developed these and I've run them successfully on a few track days now with no issues. Sure once he wakes up he'll ping you.

Yeah that makes sense, and backups my initial statement about the standard flywheel being relatively light in first place. Guess different material is the only (and more expensive) way to go.

If the standard flywheel is only 6kg then that's relatively light (relative to other cars standard flywheels). Has anyone looked into removing material from the standard flywheel? I know my local engineering works charge about £80 for removing material and re-balance.

Have a set of near new H&R springs I'm about to sell. Only done 3 trackdays on them since new (zero road miles). PM me if interested. They are for 197 & early 200.

Rainsport 3's are great on track, but only use them when there is standing water (i.e. not just damp). I was dancing round most things at Cadwell in the rain.

Yep, agree. Renault won't be looking to put the most expensive, exotic parts on something like a Clio - it will be cost vs quality trade-off. Paying £114 for an ARB drop-link is madness, just because at some point 10 years ago a bean-counter in France decided to go with a particular company, but...

Got mine from Eurocarparts. I remember changing the ARB drop links and the stabiliser links for both sides and the total cost came in at around £50. In my opinion really is no point insisting on genuine when OEM will be just as good. My car handles like it's on rails on track, so I know they...