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So it needs belts and a service? What's the gearbox like? Any history? Still original? With the information and pics you've provided, I would say 4k. It's a shame the seats are such a mess. I would put some money into it and get it absolutely mint personally. Tidy examples are demanding a good...

Ran them for years. Also back to back testing of them, and struggle to see where all the bad press comes from.

It’s crazy that you’re getting this much feedback from road driving. You’re like a Czech Schumacher :tearsofjoy: :tearsofjoy:

All, if not most modern cars will always idle high on startup. It’s to get temperature in the cat. Your power issue, I’m not sure. Does it have any fault codes? Does it sound louder than usual like the exhaust is leaking? If you’re worrying about replacing the steering rack as a financial...

Sintofluid 75w80 Sintopoid 75w90 is made for LSDs, but will knacker the synchros

It's not that big. Not many 197's made the official quoted power figures. ~10% is well within the inaccuracy of chassis dyno's. My own car ran 193 stock. My friends 179. Presuming you have no fault codes present, there's not much more you can do other than chucking parts at it.

That doesn’t seem too bad for an old engine. The compression figure isn’t too important, but the difference between each cylinder.

I believe the synchro hub's are still available to buy. This includes 3rd and 4th synchro, along with all the other gubbins. A bit expensive, but needs must. Part number is 7701769552

MONEY

Yes, I understand. Just build it back up. You've spun it over already and had no contact. Do the same when you refit the lower pulley and aux belt. It'll be fine

Just to reaffirm, With the crank pin, horseshoe, and pulley locks, and the belt tensioned, tighten the pulleys to spec. I had the same issue last week. And like you say, the old belt would of been much worse (just as mine was)

Yes, the pulley pins/bolts.

I would loosen the pins, get the horseshoe in, put the pulley lockers in, tighten the pins (obviously with the crank pin still in) I had the same issue last week.

I’ll get there eventually.

Definitely the cheapest option

Crunchy wouldn’t of met the regulations for the events I wanna do. I also still wanted to do trackdays This cars gonna remain fairly stock in the grand scheme of things.

He’ll just be covering himself in the event of something happening. I wouldn’t worry about it personally. I cut the legs off my OEM one The OEM braces do fit, but the radiator tab needs moving to a different place. Pretty easy if you have a welder

Not really much of an update. But I’ve had very little motivation to sort this over winter. I have however gone on a bit of a spending spree of recent. I actually did a proper job and did both the timing and aux belt, including tensioners. Scuttle drains done me dirty. Previous...

Minimim 5-6k done, in the current market easily. If it was me, I’d make it mint. Sort the paint, sort the niggles, get the belts done and it serviced.

3-4k perhaps