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Defo a 200 on 11plate. Seat, boot badge and wheels confirm that. However, I think someone might get in more trouble having 5 in a 200.

It was very damp. However I've been there in heavy rain and had more grip which is most prob down to temps. My contis only have 3mm left now which is quite amazing with 4 trackday and 14k miles. Time for some new ones though.

It wasn't daz. CL10 JET was the plate. It was all down to the confidence as he said he was nervous at paddock hill. Other parts we lapped at very similar pace so prob very similar ability.

Few pics from my friend. I was concentrating on getting as much track time as possible. The E92 M3 I was chasing down had Stoptech 6 pots, 888's and extra 200bhp. Not bad from the 200.:clap: There was a GW200 with bigger rotors and Akra exhaust. I could still brake much later...

I'm in thes same boat. I simply don't enjoy the car on the road and don't do enough trackdays in it to justify the outlay. However I can't get a good enough price to sell so it's staying for now. For old school I looked at 84-89 911 3.2. Great drive and simply great all round.

Is answer to your qestion, the standard projectors are in no way up to standards. The design seems to be quite ancient.

You can indeed install new projectors in your headlamps. Those projectors are not worth the effort though but there are many on the market. The headlamps doesn't seem to open up with heat though but I haven't tried enough heat and time combo yet. Once open you will need to do some modding...

The standard pads were fine for me but as said they would fade after a while if you are really hard on them. I'm a relatively smooth driver and I only see fade after around 30mins on a cool day, more like 20min on a hot day. I still brake hard but I look after them lap after lap. As for the...

Please move thread to correct section. Was going to change the sectiong but forgot and pressed post.

Might be trading the 200 in so could be swapping the recaros and yellow belts for some standard items. The seats are in good condition with just light bobbling on the bolsters which is reasonable for 14k. Would be looking for around £800 for the seats. Are there any real interest for...

I driven a 197, R27 and 200 Cup on track extensively and I don't think there is 2s between them. The 200 is most definately bit quicker but more importantly the 200 gives much more confidence. The steering and the damping allows you to feel much more and thus get the optimum from the car just a...

Civic FD2 or MINI Cooper S.

I would do a track day in your 200 first. The 200 is built for the track and it's very hard to crash. Building a track car can get very expensive especially when you add in all logistic costs. I am currently looking for a MX5 to turn into a race car and the basic cost is already £8k incl the car.

It feels different on the 200 for some reason. I haven't looked properly but it looks as though the bolt goes into a metal nut. It's more solid than my 197 ever was.

They seem to have changed it on the 200. Is the 197 held by metal bolt into the wing?

Found the pics. The steps might not be correct as I can't remember it too well. Remove front bumper. (guide in how to section) Remove these torx screws. With all screws removed start unclipping the lower grille. Pops off. Leaving the blade. Remove fogs and the covers...

They'd probably notice it knowing my luck. However I probably won't need to fill it up and they won't notice. haha

I have pics of the front blade removal somewhere. I'll try and get them up this WE.

I'm chaging the oil aswell and hope it gets better. I just need to actually do it now.

Mine had uner 10 miles on the clock when I picked it up. I warmed it up then took it to the dual carrieway (still under 10 miles) and then did serveral WOT runs in 3rd and 4th to just over 6k then slow down with no throttle. Drove causually for the rest of the run in period with serveral 6 k...