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Yes, and we were talking about how he was driving about; hence me saying that. Fully aware of how a rolling road works, ive designed and built several, as well as engine dyno's.

I find interesting renault have kept same diam runners for 182 and 197 given the hike in Cr between the two engines, what are your thoughts on this?

No, never had such a problem.

yes exactly, and its not daft if it allows an ideal intake length with comfortable packaging. The problem is 75% of users dont take into account such constraints, they bolt ITBS on and see no/little gains.....it IS always intake length. Thats not to say with correct input they cant make...

Its using sound physics, theres no question there, its just not very controlable....as Ive said above to many variables which are out of the control of the user. Mass is critcal in obtaining a power figure when using such physics. Its determining the time required to accelerate a KNOWN mass...

The problem is the induction length....if you fit a short rad like we make/supply, you can get a more ideal intake length, and mush better peak figures. With a std radiator and slam panel its very limited.

lol no thats not the difference! it uses set time/speed parameters to approximate a bhp figure. the downside is, 1) as youve pointed out the weight isnt accurate, and unless yiu measure eveytime it never will be 2)you cant account for aerodynamic losses i.e head wind or tail wind, you cant...

Ok but remember to budget for change of wheels/tyres, suspension, security, converting to RHD if preferred, ID, MOT etc etc talking ~£5k there easy. Plus the 10k deficit after buying a racer and selling yours. Then compare to say 8k for reshelling your car into a cup shell with the box.

Strip/inspect at least once. Depends on usage, you don't have to flat shift everywhere for eg. They are ALOT more durable than a standard part, but they are ALOT more expensive to repair if they go wrong....so the idea is prevention is better than cure, so frequent check ups.

Fair enough, then I'd reconsider the project, cos @ £1200 just for a strip/inspect, which ideally wants to be done a couple of times a year, they aren't cheap to run if you can't DIY. Plus their rated torque is 250n.m so way less than a SC motor puts out. This is what they advertise at least...

Yes, due a load in end of this month, send me a pm as I've got several people on s list for them. Woody, you'd be better off re-shelling your car into a cup shell, with the addition of a seq. Box

Why would you need to SVA it? Buy the numbers and V5 from a Cat C/D transfer them and change colour and cc with dvla.

Sorry delay in posting! So are you thinking of buying a whole cup racer, or building one up using cup shell etc? In either case you'll need to ID it. Personally I'd build one using a shell, as you'll scrap stuff off a race car which makes it uneconomical to buy a complete racer.

What's the use of this car going to be...realistically

House Shmouse :p

Making it road legal isn't too hard, just put your road car numbers on it and MOT done, making it road suitable is another matter.....cup suspension would need to be switched for something more forgiving, so there's 3k for something "upto" the spec of the rest of the car. Day to day wouldn't be...

I can sell you a Sadev for about 6k :) Tbh, if you were planning something like that I'd only suggest it as a second car/toy, and keep something sensible for day to day use.

I can sell you a Cup race shell for about 2k, you can transfer all your gear from road car to it :)

If you changed the pistons and put an oil return in the block would be ok.

The EPROM needs to be flashed with the code and map data, as has been said a whole dump is required, but this isn't via obd it's direct on chip. Give me a call Monday if you need it doing, I work closely with a guy who has the facilities to do this. The other option is a standalone unit, DTA etc.