Sprint Hillclimb 197

So for it has a scorpion cat back and ramair inductions kit. (I bought a standard airbox as i heard they are better). Cup suspension from a 200, braided lines, completely refurbished brembos (back calipers were good), PBS pads, Sparco sprint seat is on the way, I got some 200 cup wheels wrapped in Nankang NS-2R to get me started. I think I can get started from here.

I have the 197 wheels and they need tyres, are the Bridgestone RE070 more a road tyre? Or are they a semi slick? Are they any good on track?
 
Got the clio taxed and insured. Was able to get out to bed the brakes in :smile:. The weather wasnt great for bedding brakes in, the handbrake saw more usage!

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I noticed that the temperature gauge doesnt go as high as I thought i should. In my megane it sits straight up. I did 10 miles at 60-65mph and put the boot down a few times and it was slightly warm before and the gauge looked like this. (I have seen it a bit higher once)

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If it is low would it run different? I only got 25-26mpg at 60-65mph and i cleared the meter before the 10 miles. Thought I would get more than that, not expecting loads but the megane would be over 35mpg at 60mph.

Now that the roads are clear again was able to test the brakes, they feel pretty good! At decent speed and a good medium pressure on the pedal there is a little wobble in the wheel. Was worse when the disks were rusty’er, they are pretty clean now. Maybe the pads and discs are still cleaning up/bedding in.
 
Fotgot to say, when i flick the cruise control switch it comes up on screen, but when i press the + on the wheel it doesnt set the speed on the screen. Speed limiter does set the speed on the wheel, but doesnt actually stop you at that speed. Then it just goes of the screen and back to showing miles etc. Is it just buggered? Anyone seen this?
 
I had the same temp gauge behavior even in warm weather. Replaced the original thermostat by a new OEM one. Now, after warming up, the needle just stands to the left of the middle bar
 
Where about's did you drive the car I thought you were up around Larne for some reason the temperature gauge looks normal like rSilva says the fan will kick in left of the middle bar the needle position above the second bar to me is normal, mine when I got it would not go above the second bar unless sitting in traffic so I put a genuine thermostat in when I did the water pump and timing belts etc. The wobble would worry me if it does it under braking then I would say your disc has an edge of maybe rust on the outside or inside edge of the pad the genuine discs can be got for £120 if they are warped.
 
Where about's did you drive the car I thought you were up around Larne for some reason the temperature gauge looks normal like rSilva says the fan will kick in left of the middle bar the needle position above the second bar to me is normal, mine when I got it would not go above the second bar unless sitting in traffic so I put a genuine thermostat in when I did the water pump and timing belts etc. The wobble would worry me if it does it under braking then I would say your disc has an edge of maybe rust on the outside or inside edge of the pad the genuine discs can be got for £120 if they are warped.

I live in Omagh.
The wobble has mostly gone away now.
Although I had the car up on a lift today to change the front shocks (that was fun) and inspected the front discs more closely now the rust is gone, the side that had the seized caliper isn't completely smooth, has like grooves all the way round. Im making it sound worse than it is but it's still there. I ordered some brembo HC disks with next day delivery, I wont drive the car again until they come.

The grip in these wee cars is incredible especially with the cup shocks no wonder everyone likes them, you can feel it lighter than the Megane for sure. Although it's my first time on semi slicks too.
 
A right I'm up in Cookstown I stuck with the genuine discs due to the black treatment on the centre bell so they don't rust so bad but I think rust problem is more down to acid wheel cleaners. I use the standard Brembo pads they are fine and a lot cheaper than the genuine Renault pads that say Renault and Brembo on them.
 
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I got the HC brembos because they are £88 and people recommend them for track. Might get some black paint for them! The PBS pads seem really good so far. The initial bite is very good.
 
Got the seat fitted today, really happy with it! Was hard to get the side screws in on the inside in the dark haha.

I used the 3 resisters for the airbags in the plug under the seat, followed a picture from a thread on here. When turning the ignition on, all the lights come on and then go out as they should, success! But wait 2 secs later it says something about ESC and then it says its deactivated and the light comes on. Damn! Never seen that before. What is the issue?

Brembo discs came today, dad is going to paint the bell for me during the week.

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Got the seat fitted today, really happy with it! Was hard to get the side screws in on the inside in the dark haha.

I used the 3 resisters for the airbags in the plug under the seat, followed a picture from a thread on here. When turning the ignition on, all the lights come on and then go out as they should, success! But wait 2 secs later it says something about ESC and then it says its deactivated and the light comes on. Damn! Never seen that before. What is the issue?

Brembo discs came today, dad is going to paint the bell for me during the week.

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One of the wires needs a minimum of 80 ohm to turn the light off, i tought it was the one that meassures where the seat is, the postion sensor. I've had the same problem with mine, i installed a 100 ohm, found a picture, the blue is 100. I don't know if RHD hase the same colors on the wiring but you can locate the wires from the old seats an see where it goes to
 

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One of the wires needs a minimum of 80 ohm to turn the light off, i tought it was the one that meassures where the seat is, the postion sensor. I've had the same problem with mine, i installed a 100 ohm, found a picture, the blue is 100. I don't know if RHD hase the same colors on the wiring but you can locate the wires from the old seats an see where it goes to

I didnt mention that i disconnected the battery and that i just need to drive the car to get the traction control to sort itself out. Was your airbag light still on without the bigger resistor? My airbag light is off atm
 
I didnt mention that i disconnected the battery and that i just need to drive the car to get the traction control to sort itself out. Was your airbag light still on without the bigger resistor? My airbag light is off atm
Yes mate, glad it solved for you
 
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Got my MUK licence back! Booked into my first sprint for March 2nd.
Discs to fit on saturday morning, then wheel alignment after.
Should I just ask for the tow to be set as -0°12’ ± 12’?
Cant wait for the steering wheel to be pointing straight as its driving me nuts being slightly of.
Thats what I gather the cup setting is.

The car has spacers, they look roughly 19/20mm. I’m I better with or without these. Don’t know if my wheel bolts are too long if I take the, off though.

Standard airbox will go in as I hear these are better than a random foam induction kit type filter from ramair that doesnt have a heat shield.

Then oil and filter change and should be ready to go.

Does anyone know the thread of the bolt that holds the seat subframe to the chassis? M10 or the imperial one?

Also what is the thread of the outside seat belt rail holder bolt?
And the 4 bolts in the back by the iso bar that people mount harnesses to? Are the outside ones the seatbelt bolts? And are different thread from the inside ones?

Looking to get 6 point harnesses.
 
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The car will be all metric get yourself a thread gauge and a digital vernier gauge. Would a cup car be better for what you are doing because it would be lighter without the keyless stuff Xenon headlights etc. and your going to put a roll cage in it.
 
Are you doing any hillclimbs? Im doing the NI championship in class 6b in my 197. My brother is in your class in his M3 too.
 
The car will be all metric get yourself a thread gauge and a digital vernier gauge. Would a cup car be better for what you are doing because it would be lighter without the keyless stuff Xenon headlights etc. and your going to put a roll cage in it.

Cup car would be better and always planned to go to England to get a 197 as they are rare enough here. But this one came up so just got it and put cup suspension in it. My driving probably won't be good enough to notice a few KG's lighter haha

Are you doing any hillclimbs? Im doing the NI championship in class 6b in my 197. My brother is in your class in his M3 too.

I will defo do the Omagh/spamount hillclimb as it is round the corner. But mostly sprints when I'm starting out as I feel they could be safer lol. An M3 lol I'll have fun keeping up with that I'm sure.
 
Aye he’s pretty quick. Won the class at the last 2 events first time out last year. Think I might do Nutts Corner on the 2nd as a shake down/get used to the car so might see you there.
 
Aye he’s pretty quick. Won the class at the last 2 events first time out last year. Think I might do Nutts Corner on the 2nd as a shake down/get used to the car so might see you there.

Was he at kirkistown near the end of last year? Think I might have seen him. I was up watching.

There is another clio same colour as mine booked in to class 2A along with me for March 2nd. Hope to see you there