Swivel hubs.

I'm not trying to do anyone out of business but one thing might not have an affect on the other. I would pay the £5 and become a member so you can get access to the how to section etc.. A sticking brake calliper might be the reason for the pull while braking as far as uneven balance left to right. Your nearest specialist is two techs Dartford I could be wrong but they might do a service of replacing the ball joints which would be cheaper than buying the carrier and would be in a better position to say what's wrong and what's needed for a fee of course but you can decide to budget purchase and fit yourself or have them do it and enjoy a fully sorted suspension. My experience is that lower ball joints affect turn in, as you turn into a corner and stop steering wheel input the car tends to turn in some more. Lower ball joints show up if you lift the wheel off the ground grab the wheel at the 6 o'clock position then push and pull if there's play then the lower ball joint has gone. This is my lower ball joint it's like a pencil in an empty cup.
 
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Thanks for the info mate! Brakes are free and moving as they should- literally just changed brakes and piston's moved fine, then only noticed this as much due to the extra brake force...i guess.

So it's side to side wobble on the wheel ...3 & 9 on a clock. I would normally go for the more budget option of replacing the joints themselves but with it on track at fcs and my normal mechanic pretty booked up i need the speediest solution....which i think is this.
 
Sounds like its the steering track rods or the forward tie rods. The problem will be that one can prop up the other the forward tie rods can make the steering track rods inner and outer seem OK as it holds the hub from the other direction until they in turn are knackered. I've had the track rod ends inner and outer changed myself and have to say the inner ones are hard to get the gator boot clips fastened on the inside unless you drop the sub frame and I got the special Track rod end tool.
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The inner track rods are genuine only I have not found any other makes although TRW make them they are not TRW listed. Be very careful ordering parts get the genuine part numbers then cross reference the part number for aftermarket parts do not trust listings as " for Clio 197" or what motor factors have on their computers as some online sites for example the drop links listed for a 197 can be 250mm, 260mm and 280mm long on the same page but only one is the right length. You will get home take the car apart then have to put it back together to go back and change the parts if you don't take this advice. The other advice is if you change the track rod ends when you disconnect them from the hub assembly the collar may remain on the old track rod end do not miss this many have and thrown them away by accident and they cant be bought as spare parts. My track rod ends passed the MOT (in Northern Ireland it's done while you wait in government test centres) even after two mechanics before and after and I already knew they weren't right
 
3 and 9 says it’s probably a rack end or track rod end

That makes sense, although I had a lot of play @ 3 & 9 o'clock (none @ 6 & 12) on the N/S wheel which was due to the lower swivel/hub ball joint needing replacement. When driving it would knock on potholes and follow imperfections in road surface.

I would normally go for the more budget option of replacing the joints themselves but with it on track at fcs and my normal mechanic pretty booked up i need the speediest solution....which i think is this.

If you're replacing the hub carrier it doesn't take much longer to only replace the ball joint, as long as your mechanic is prepared as per the how to thread (press to remove/install ball joint, pinch bolt will likely need drilling out etc).
 
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