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Discussion in 'Projects/Progress Threads' started by duck.co.za, Jun 13, 2018.
nice and shiny...
my typing was crap" meant to put 197/200 went to continuously variable timing whereas the 172/182 didnt!
Found a second hand RS tuner VCI module , is it worth trying ? Yes it will need to be unlocked and linked to my car . It's one of the earlier Mk1 modules . Anyone know if these are still supported ? I did send Henk a mail , but think he will only reply during the week .
Thanks for clarifying
I'm interested to find out more about putting a vernier gear on the exhaust cam ? Also wonder how much can be changed with the dephaser , from a mapping point of view ?
The VCI needs to be unlocked to you ECU or else you won't be able to write the calibration into the ECU
I understand the unlocking procedure . I was just wondering if anyone has used one and how happy they were ?
Seem to have been around for while , maybe a bit out of date now ?
Cams and tappet cover on , got to use my dinky little 5 to 20 Nm torque wrench
Little more progress today . Cam belt and timing is done . I hired a tool to do it , what a useless exercise !! Tool was just rubbish , eventually made my own tool to lock the exhaust cam . Next time I will just make the whole thing . The timing should really be done with the Catcam tool that makes it possible to do it with the tappet cover off . Anyone on here used one ? I was just trying to understand the logic behind how it locks the cams at the opposite end to the pulleys . It's starting to look more like a motor now .
good progress..look very much new
Cool , thank you
Almost ready to go back . Having not taken it apart , it has taken longer to workout which bolt goes where than actually bolting it together .
Should there be a starter motor heat shield ? If so what does it look like ?
yes, it's and ally cover with a C spring to push fit the shield into the starter itself
not the best description and could not find pictures
This piece or I could just do as the bottom pic
Thanks for your help
I take it the catcams don't use the normal tool that sits in the end of the cams behind the little blanking plugs? and the crank pulley is fully floating so would it not make more sense to put the lower plastic cover on and then tighten everything up? just seems a bit daft doing it, timing it, and then undoing a crucial bit of timing gear and having the potential for putting the timing degrees out? it doesn't take much movement for that to happen, 1mm at the crank is massive
The 830/832 motors don't have a fully floating crank pulley ( only cams ), they are keyed to the crank . I just felt that pin in the side of the block hardly held it a TDC very accurately , there was lots of slop . The half moon cam locator also had slop in it , maybe my kit was just poorly made ?
I'm old school and would like to be able to put a dial gauge on the valve spring retainer .
Ah that’s ok then, at least they did away with the floating crank pulley on these then! I’ve done loads of 172/182’s at my old place, never did a 197 or 200, I have bought a set of cam timing tools, tbh I rely on them for timing, then remove them and make sure they are still square and tune the engine over and then re-insert, need to drop in perfect or it’s start again
I always turned the engine clockwise into the tool with rotation and used that as an accurate reference, done loads like it and never had an issue, the only decent timing tools I’ve used are the 8mm locking pins in the outer edges of flywheels on pugs, same for cam pulleys, why they feel the need for floating pulleys I’ll never know, it’s not like machining gives massive tolerances, and woodruff lets have worked for years, also belts are replicated and made exactly the same, I never did get the need for floaters...
Little more progress , motor is in . It was pretty much painless seeing as I had never done it before .
I'm interested to know from someone who has done the cam timing with the catcam tool . At some stage I will try and make one , just need to try and understand the logic