Our Intake

Discussion in 'Engine, Gearbox, Exhaust and Air Intake' started by ScoobyWhite, Feb 7, 2011.

  1. ScoobyWhite

    ScoobyWhite

    Messages:
    83
    Just to open the thread how the oem intake is good....

    [​IMG]




    I think it has a very nice design...
    Full gas 1- 60% intake air 4- 40% intake air.....


    Thanks
     

  2. GrumpyTwig

    GrumpyTwig "the troll hunter" with added boost!

    Messages:
    4,073
    Location:
    Yorkshire
    Have always though the second intake (4) on the diagram seems a bit of an afterthought.

    Where's the image from?
     
  3. Raptor6767

    Raptor6767 Gold Member

    Messages:
    3,222
    Location:
    Zagreb, Croatia
    Car:
    Renault Sport Clio 197T
    Here's a better one:

    [​IMG]
     
  4. 200cup andy

    200cup andy Platinum Member

    Messages:
    489
    Location:
    cambs
    so i dont get why you cant make the valve stay open all the time as according to that it only stops noise lol
     
  5. Willis

    Willis The Gatekeeper Platinum Member

    Messages:
    6,552
    Location:
    Altrincham
    Car:
    Honda Civic EP3 Type-R
    You can do it, there's a guide on here somewhere I think.

    Not sure if it's advantageous though!?! :smile:
     
  6. ben_r1

    ben_r1

    Messages:
    3,469
    Location:
    Essex
    Car:
    Evo
    Says it opens when you boot it anyway so who needs additional air when poodling around?
     
  7. DanT

    DanT

    Messages:
    1,561
    Location:
    Stamford
    Damn right,

    This basically confirms that the whole acoustic valve thing IS there to AID air intake at high revs! Awesome diagram!
     
  8. ScoobyWhite

    ScoobyWhite

    Messages:
    83
    This is what I think...

    The air intake system is actually well design.... these guys have brains....

    If you think a 1.5DCI engine that have 105hp with this system (less the point 4) can delivery 150hp tuned and the diesel engines need much more air....
    If this system at full throttle only delivery 60% of the air and the point 4 (in the 197/200) delivery the rest of 40% this almost have to intakes....and for sure it will be capable of supply much more than 200hp...

    I just think that the "system" have too much corners and the air since the first intake to the manifold run a great distance....
    I just remove the point number 3....

    LOL


    Thanks
     
  9. Paul

    Paul Banned Member Platinum Member

    Messages:
    6,998
    Location:
    Halifax, West Yorkshire
    Car:
    LY R27
    Explains why all aftermarket air intakes/cone filter etc are useless!
     
  10. RalphyBMW

    RalphyBMW

    Messages:
    2,381
    Location:
    West Yorkshire
    I would have thought swapping the airbox and battery around, and having the plenum at the front would be better, but space is limited and runner lengths are important for torque, etc.
     
  11. ScoobyWhite

    ScoobyWhite

    Messages:
    83
    Anyone only remove the 3?

    Notice any difference?

    Thanks
     
  12. RalphyBMW

    RalphyBMW

    Messages:
    2,381
    Location:
    West Yorkshire
    I have removed the resonator to accommodate a silicone hose between No.2 and the airbox. Seems a bit louder perhaps?
     
  13. ScoobyWhite

    ScoobyWhite

    Messages:
    83
    Do you have photo?

    What was the hose?



    Thanks
     
  14. RalphyBMW

    RalphyBMW

    Messages:
    2,381
    Location:
    West Yorkshire
    Hopefully this helps;

    2011-01-05008.jpg

    The silicone hose didn't have a provision for the smaller hose going to No.3, so I removed the resonator and connecting hose.
     
  15. Treza360

    Treza360 Paid Member

    Messages:
    37
    Location:
    Brisbane, Australia
    Car:
    2010 RS Clio 200 Cup 20th AE
    Hi Everybody,

    Been lurking for a while reading plenty about intake setups/filters and the "acoustic" valve. Seeing this thread today looks like it is going to open this whole discussion up again, so I thought I'd make my first post here and try and see if some sense can't be made out of this whole setup.

    From the description posted, it looks to fly in the face of everything that has really been posted in regards to the valve in various threads thus far. Going through these threads, the general consensus seemed to be that the valve was open at low engine speeds and then as revs increased the valve closed at a specified rpm. This new diagram and descriptions indicates the opposite to this. Is this what the general consensus is on this or am I barking up the wrong tree?

    So the next question I suppose is, is this image and associated descriptions 100% accurate and how come after all this time so many were convinced of the opposite to this (assuming that this diagram is accurate)?

    Cheers.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2011
  16. Mike Roberts

    Mike Roberts

    Messages:
    837
    No, makes sense to me. It's quiet around town and gets louder when you open it up where possible.

    That resonator looks ripe for removal too.
     
    Smorgan7 likes this.
  17. ryan197

    ryan197 POW right in the kisser Platinum Member

    Messages:
    3,175
    Location:
    Costa Del Coseley
    Car:
    Megane 279
    think i may run some pipe from the acoustic valve down behind the fog somewhere for cooler air.
     
  18. jaxx

    jaxx

    Messages:
    790
    Location:
    Notts, UK
    I never realised the bit labelled "3" was there lol!

    Also... instead of mucking about trying to block or disable the accoustic valve... would it not be advatageous to extend a feed to the front of the car to enable it to gather colder air, rather than the pool of warm air it will be sitting in.

    As a whole it does look well thought out, and well proven when people chav it up with an induction kit y0` and end up loosing power :smiley:

    Id have though minor improvements could be made to insulate or reflect heat at least from the system.... perhaps some reflective self adhesive stuff for the main box, or heat resistant material between the engine and pipework... ill have words with me old man as he works with refractories and has plenty of access to stuff like that :smile:
     
  19. ben_r1

    ben_r1

    Messages:
    3,469
    Location:
    Essex
    Car:
    Evo
    Any heat reflective tape placed on the rear side of the airbox ( facing the manifold ) stays on for about 10 minutes, i've tried lol.

    The best alternative i could come up with is a DEI heat resistant sleeve around the inlet pipe:

    DSC00970.jpg
     
  20. Paul

    Paul Banned Member Platinum Member

    Messages:
    6,998
    Location:
    Halifax, West Yorkshire
    Car:
    LY R27
    Welcome to the site mate!

    :welcome:

    Yeah you seem to be correct with your assumption.

    I know I though the same as the masses - that it was open at low speed and closed at high speed. The theory being that if it was open for long periods with the engine at high speeds and getting hot, it would suck in warm air which is obviously a bad thing especially for N/A engines. Its impossible to test which way around it is without driving along with the bonnet open and someone having a look while the engine is under load lol. :wink:
     

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