LY200 - too loud or blow up again, taking bets!

It's driving a little better now as he optimised the map lower down on part throttle, was a bit jerky before and def better on the way home. To be fair I've been progressively pushing it to the point I've been thraphing it on the roads anyway, but yeah it's pretty epic and the noise is unreal! It's had a fresh dose of millers 10-50w nanotec so setup for the track now. What I need to do though is just make sure I have a lambda gauge setup so I can keep a check on it (that's what the data logger and display will be for).
 
Yeah video will be soon :grinning: I popped open my action cam (Xiaomi Yi) the other day and soldered an external headphone socket to it, so now I can plug my external mic directly into it.
The one thing I learnt when I took some track vid last, was I really can't be arsed to edit in post the merging of different audio and video tracks. This way I get a single in sync track - sure the DAC is better on my external mic than the Yi - but probably not enough to deal with the faff, especially once YouTube has raped the shit out of the quality anyway :astonished:
 
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Thanks, but I'm sure they'll be another drama lurking around the corner for me :coldsweat:

btw you can't edit posts now??
 
Car looks epic & them result's are to be jealous off!!

Cheers, I really want it lower from a looks point of view. But as it predominately hacks around the roads I have to consider how low looks/increased spring rate trade off against usability - imo Cup setup does pretty well to be a jack of all, so I'm sort of waiting for it to break I think before changing bits there! Just have to rock the tractor look a while longer :confounded:

I will get those TB dimensions for you. Just a little busy with a house move

no probs and no rush at all on my part :smile:
 
Man oh man... a lot cash thrown into this project, is there a top list of insane builds? I'm sure in terms of cash this one would be right up there. Keep the faith and the 'Diamond' (logo) in your heart!
 
Nice catch can set up very tidy, colour looks spot on as well! I need to get a catch can for my new motor, I'm not to clued up on them are ebay ones that bad compared to a Mocal?
 
Any updates Rich?
Lovely car, you have no doubt had your fair share of bad luck but its great it's now sorted.
 
Nice catch can set up very tidy, colour looks spot on as well! I need to get a catch can for my new motor, I'm not to clued up on them are ebay ones that bad compared to a Mocal?

Sorry mate missed this. Tbh the Mocal one is overpriced really, it's empty inside whereas the 'better' ones are baffled. But it ultimately depends what you are going to do with the outlet as to if you need baffles or not. If you're going to take the outlet side of the catch can back into the inlet tract then you do want a baffled one, but if like most you vent the outlet to atmo then no need and the Mocal is just fine.....and they do look nice :wink:

Any updates Rich?
Lovely car, you have no doubt had your fair share of bad luck but its great it's now sorted.

Thanks! But no updates as such, just pottering it around really, like a circus lion in a cage :joycat:
I think this year all I can expect is to get the wideband installed along with a datalogger/display - that'll mean I can have a level of monitoring sufficient to get a track day as it stands.
Currently thinking I'll go for a PLEX Tuning uSDM-102, it takes a CAN output from the ECU and so gives me all the ECU parameters accessible and alert-able from in the car. I will move the oil temp and oil pressure gauge wiring I currently have to also go via the ECU, that way it's a single CAN connection from ECU to PLEX. I'll install the PLEX in the current position I have my SPA gauge too so keeps it nice and discreet.
uSDM_HW_DETAILS.png
Which reminds me I need to book an auto elec or someone smart to pin out the OEM lambda wiring on the car. I'm pretty sure I can use the OEM wiring for my wideband as the SC ECU uses factory wiring, the issue I have is I think 2 of the wires on the OEM plug are Heater + and Heater -, but no one can seem to tell me if the Heater - is a ground or what really. Tbh I'm shit at wiring! I can solder and crimp well and heatshrink like the best of them, as that's just neatness - it's the actually knowing with certainty where to plug wires into that fucks me over :worried:

As far as developing the engine package, well the custom DTH ITB kit is coming in at an earth shattering cost (bloody brexit!!) - so will likely be looking for an alternative (few options available). But it might be some time before I make some changes now as currently having a car port/garage built, and then the car is going to be stored in an Airchamber inside that. Which means I'm after something like a cheap mk3 1.5dci to use as a daily now and that leaves nothing for ITB's and cams.
Advantage with making this a 2nd car though means I could eventually go stripped and caged, depends on usage patterns as to how that will develop.
 
Saw you last post whilst I was having one of my infrequent catch ups.
Unfortunately none of the heater wires return directly back to earth. Pin 1,2& 3 go directly to ECU. Pin 4 is the feed from the UCH in engine bay. The cable 3FB2 is a common +ve feed for a number of items including the downstream O2 sensor, petrol vapour valve & the cam sensor.

If you need more info I can copy a few wiring diagrams over, but send us a PM as I will notice it quicker


ENGINE WIRING
F4R830


UPSTREAM OXYGEN SENSOR
F4R830/CHAUFO/BVM6

Pin Wire Size CoreName Description
1 0.5 3GH UPSTREAM OXYGEN SENSOR EARTH F005E
2 0.5 3GK UPSTREAM OXYGEN SENSOR SIGNAL F005E
3 0.75 3GF UPSTREAM OXYGEN SENSOR HEATER - CONTROL F005E
4 0.75 3FB2 INJECTION + > PROTECTIVE RELAY F005E
 
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Nice one cheers, so it would probably be a case of:

Wideband / Renault plug
+ve 12v -> pin 4 3FB2 +ve from UCH
signal -> pin 2 3GK sensor signal
sensor gnd -> pin 1 3GH sensor earth
electronics gnd -> pin 1 3GH sensor earth (share it with above?).

However...I think I'm just going to put a new AEM X-Series Wideband in it now! Super easy to install and I already have a Bosch 4.9 LSU sensor so I am hoping I can buy just the gauge, like you could with the older AEM widebands.
I can if needed take the 0-5v output from the AEM straight to the ECU, looks like just a couple of pins which should be the ones (signal/earth) populated already by the Renault Lambda in the SC/Renault cable.

I think my aspirations for datalogging everything have waned tbh, I mean I can't honestly see myself panning through it all, checking lean and rich conditions correlate to an appropriate TPS % and rpm point :\ !! Nah...I just want AFR in the car when I'm on it for peace of mind, and frankly after the first track day and the confidence in the mapping is there, I need never look it again!

Need to spend the logger money etc on more engine bits!!:drunk:
 
The ground are seperated on the OE sensor.
1 is sensor ground
2 is sensor signal
3 heater ground (switched through relay)
4 is live for heater and aignal

Make sure the afr you get has a sensor ground if you want to log it. If it doesn't it won't have a stable output!
 
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yeah you see all this just confuses me :coldsweat:, and hence I'm going the completely separate route now from the ecu/loom via a gauge and sensor. The gauge just needs power and ground (same as my oil gauge setup) and then the LSU 4.9 sensor is plugged directly to the back of the gauge and all the heating etc is taken care of...simples!

Yep the 0-5v output from the gauge is 2 cables, 0-5v signal and signal ground which I think is the reference?
Whilst pissing around with the ecu software last night.....the ECU will data log anyway with the software, so if I actually wanted to trace AFR and correlate against TPS & rpm etc etc, then I can do that. The latest software has something called DeltaLog with it now, looks pretty funky.
 
Just grabbed a nice deal on a TomTom SatNav display, saw on eBay and was for sale only 12miles away, 30 mins later and it's mine :smile: Perfect condition too with no blemishes and even has the control module.

I bought an AEM X-Series Wideband too, so tomorrow should see the SatNav display removed from the housing and a sheet of carbon installed with 2 x 52mm gauge holes (one for the wideband, one for my existing SPA dual oil temp/pressure).
The SPA won't match the fascia on the AEM, so longer term I'll replace it with 2 separate AEM oil temp and oil pressure gauges - AEM gauges have a 0-5v output which can be fed back to the ECU for datalogging and also setting up safety parameters based on them. As for when I'll do that - depends how much the 2 different gauge faces irritate me!

IMAG0765.jpg
IMAG0762.jpg

I now have 2 widebands, I'll look to sell the SC one or perhaps just keep the Bosch sensor as a spare.
IMAG0763.jpg
 

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