Guys,
I expect I know what the answer is going to be, but thought I would ask.
The clutch in my car engages very early, so the pedal is hardly moved off the floor. On track the other day it became more difficult to change gear.
So, from my knowledge of hydraulic clutches in general, it would suggest that the clutch is not being released effectively and that worsening when hot is typical of a save cylinder either needing bleeding or knackered.
I have bled the clutch, the fluid was very black, but it has now been done.
There does not seem to be a big puddle of oil or anything escaping from the bell housing to suggest any great leak and the disengagement / drag seems pretty consistent, suggesting there is not an ongoing dynamic leak.
It it therefore possible to adjust the clutch at the clutch pedal and is that part of the set up?
Let me revise that, what is the likely cause of this? Everything would suggest the thrust bearing is not being moved out far enough. Can this be adjusted without having to take the box out?
The only other info is when I did bleed it, while I thought I had reengaged the bleed union, I assume it did not latch and so on first operation it popped open and was leaking fluid all over the floor. The parts did not separate. Could this have allowed air back in? I haven't tried pumping it to see if it makes it any better as the car is at work.
I expect I know what the answer is going to be, but thought I would ask.
The clutch in my car engages very early, so the pedal is hardly moved off the floor. On track the other day it became more difficult to change gear.
So, from my knowledge of hydraulic clutches in general, it would suggest that the clutch is not being released effectively and that worsening when hot is typical of a save cylinder either needing bleeding or knackered.
I have bled the clutch, the fluid was very black, but it has now been done.
There does not seem to be a big puddle of oil or anything escaping from the bell housing to suggest any great leak and the disengagement / drag seems pretty consistent, suggesting there is not an ongoing dynamic leak.
It it therefore possible to adjust the clutch at the clutch pedal and is that part of the set up?
Let me revise that, what is the likely cause of this? Everything would suggest the thrust bearing is not being moved out far enough. Can this be adjusted without having to take the box out?
The only other info is when I did bleed it, while I thought I had reengaged the bleed union, I assume it did not latch and so on first operation it popped open and was leaking fluid all over the floor. The parts did not separate. Could this have allowed air back in? I haven't tried pumping it to see if it makes it any better as the car is at work.
