1994 Clio Williams 2

Yeah maybe some sort of air leak somethere but other rumours are an ECU issue. I bought it cheap so whatever it costs to fix the issue ill still be in pocket (not that I plan on selling at all, just nice to know it was still a good buy)
 
They've been cases mate yes. Is your idle spot on? Have you ever cleaned it? I'm not saying that this is the problem but just something to eliminate:smile:
 
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Its a good idea mate thank you, didnt even cross my mind! Ive got some carb cleaner so ill try that. At the mo its idling at 2k which i think is a bit high really
 
Idling @2k? That is def not normal mate, way too high.

Mine is temperamental from time to time, when cold and when I blip the throttle the revs go as high as 3k and stay there. I'm having the tb replaced under warranty...
 
Going to give it a good clean and see if it idles any different, never get time during the week but ill have a go on Sunday and let you know the results!
 
have you made sure it has some fresh petrol in it...if its been stood a long time the fuel wont be that great!

spray round with some carb cleaner and see if the revs change - some of the breather hoses could have perished etc
 
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Another weekend has passed and still havent sorted the idle/cutting issue, so far ISCV replaced and now the TB has been removed and cleaned with carb cleaner but still no fix, still cuts out after 60 seconds of idling at 2k.


Next up on the list is to try replacing the lambda sensor and also need to check the spark plugs

Video of idle issue here, its only 60 seconds long

https://vimeo.com/94138817?utm_sour...wYmU5ODg4fDI3NzE3NDE4fDEzOTkzNjMyNDh8NzcwMQ==
 
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[MENTION=29]foxspeed[/MENTION] I think so, cant see any issues. Tempted to just give up tbh and take it to my mates garage but I know that will cost monies that I dont really have.
 
Now managed to get the car not to stall but it will only do it once warm so people think its the coolant temp sensor that sends the signal to ECU. Really hoping this fixes the issue then it should be smooth sailing from there.

Bought new HT leads, spark plugs, dizzy cap and rotary arm, new oils/fluids so she will be like new soon :smile:
 
Had a quick chat with Ste C yesterday, great guy, polite and friendly and helped me out with my lack mechanical knowledge. What did we discuss?? Only a small touch of ITBs :smile:
 
Had a quick chat with Ste C yesterday, great guy, polite and friendly and helped me out with my lack mechanical knowledge. What did we discuss?? Only a small touch of ITBs :smile:

Hi mate. I've never actually worked on the Williams (but a lot other stuff of that age) .. Do they have a MAP or MAF sensor? (think the standard 1.8 16v did from memory).. The manifold absolute pressure sensor shot and piping split from the manifold to the sensor are often the culprit of poor idling. I've replaced a few ICVs and MAP sensors on cars of this age. Worth a check. I've also seen some after market accelerator cables not fitting correctly and causing the idle to be way too high, giving the ECU issues with signals. (Throttle position sensor). It's usually a lot easier to sort out issues like this on older cars!

Not sure if you tried another ECU but again I've seen a fee Poorly positioned ECUs get damaged from water ingress and cause issues.. Had a fuel pump running backwards once (running with the ignition off, and not running when turning the ignition on!). Again after market or poorly remapped or reconditioned ECUs can be an issue.

does it stutter or anything before cutting out? Eg fuel regulator or fuel pump issues? Air flow sensor playing up worth a check? On older cars usually on the airbox or by the throttle housing.

*edit just found a couple of threads with people mentioning idling and MAP sensor sorting it.
 
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Hi James, thanks for all that info. I can get it to idle correctly, the TPS just needed adjusting along with a screw on the TB. It does cough and splutter before it cuts out yeah!

Funny you should mention the accelerator cable as mine looks a little slack in the engine bay, theres a little bit of play.
 
Went to see the Clio this morning at my mates garage. All belts and water pump are now finished, just a few minor things to do before she is sent for an MOT next week so all being well she wil be road worthy by next weekend and I can finally drive her!.......once taxed icon_biggrin.gif

Here's a couple of pics anyway, had a good look underneath whilst I had the chance with it being on the ramps.

In regards to the radiator switch that it needs its because the pins inside have corroded icon_smile.gif

C14ECC25-906F-462A-8E0E-5A2FEF6DA99B_zps3xgiolmp.jpg

04D1781F-8BB1-4934-B60E-3751775491F7_zpsso8uuhmz.jpg

1209249B-0649-4E08-8E36-BB4B46E4BD63_zpssndzmc51.jpg

453EDA68-71C3-43A7-86F9-E08187C9C5AD_zps7ecrgau9.jpg
 
She now has a 12 month MOT and a fresh service with new oils, plugs, leads, coolant etc. Will have her back this weekend and hopefully find some money to tax her and actually be able to drive her