Search results

Sorry let me explain better. Passenger xenon dipped isn’t working So far I have: Swapped the bulb for a new Swapped the ballast and ignitor Plugged the dead headlight into the right hand loom and it works so isn’t the headlight unit. I’ve swapped the fuse and relays Removed and opened the...

come to get the car ready for its mot and I’ve only got one dipped xenon. I’ve checked the fuses and relays (in the main fuse box and the extras in front of the battery but I can’t get power to the xenon connector on the left side. Any ideas guys? Thanks Oliver

You can, I have the 200 extreme cup dampers on my R27 just using 197 top mounts. The dampers are externally identical

Yep 2 bolts. They're the 2 nuts with retainers underneath. You can lower the subframe enough to get them undone. Then leave it up out the way

Don't worry, it's not the first time I've had these apart.

Just ordered a 200 rack for mine. I may do a walk through

I've got a spare build. Will chuck it in and see if it makes a difference. Will then replace them both.

I had the Clio out a few months ago and noticed the lights were dim, I stopped and checked them incase a bulb had gone. But both were on but very dim. Is there something simple that can cause both lights to go dim? Oliver

I bought top mounts, arb links and stab links from firstline. The links were around £9 each and the top mounts £30

I've got an sgs jack. Never had an issue except the rubber pad falling off.

I paid £60 a side for refurbished calipers last year. Really well finished in red. Cables were about £30 a pair il have to dig out where from

I've used a light degreaser and hot water in a bucket. The water warms the oil and the degreaser helps remove it. Get as much oil off and flush with warm fresh water. Pat dry, leave in the sun. Oil This is how I've done my own and used to do hundreds for the Honda btcc cars. As for oil, thin...

Start by putting the window down. Will make it easier to move. Find something large to lay the door down to protect it. Twist to discount the door loom from the chassis side Undo the nuts. Refiting in reverse, but loosen all the hinge fixings both sides, tighten enough so you can move the...

Simply undo the wiring harness, undo the hinges and lift off. The coding is done in the ecu.

If you're really stuck you can carefully pry the little tab open on the damper. It's like a hook that locks over that bolt. then try and open the pinch enough to wiggle the whole damper out.

They're a pain, I used a ball joint splitter that was big enough and ground wider to accept around the balljoint. I tore the rubber, but a bag of new ones is a couple of quid.

I've done them all arb felt no change, but big job to change as its subframe dropped. Arms are a pain as the steel is seized to the ally wishbones, but ones out the new ones go in with ease. The caster adjustable ones are very good

The radiator subframe needs to come off. Easy job, then just undo the bolts. When you refit the bolts must be done up with the wishbone in the position it would be on the ground. I jacked the wishbone up until it looked about eight

Lowers fail. Available on eBay and ktec for around £70. I haven't seen many suppliers of these. Uppers are £60 and are very uncommon to fail, but can happen. There is no third

Tracked it down to a very brittle and split rubber boot on the end of the coil pack. The plug was shorting to the head.