...moving walking renopedia Sean??
Pity I can't like a post more than once. Really appreciate the info on this! Expedited decisions a lot as I am chasing my tail the last couple of months..
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Meg-Clio Build - Planning Phase
- Thread starter PaladinRS4
- Start date
Pity I can't like a post more than once. Really appreciate the info on this! Expedited decisions a lot as I am chasing my tail the last couple of months..
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Hahaha I did a lot of research when building my own and also now looking into building another one!
Yiannis197
Paid Member
Welcome Lefteri
As said, a lot of people in here have done the conversion, admittedly quite a few who further pushed the boundaries have sold and moved on - however their projects are still active. I believe a guy named Andy (running a 400bhp Clio) created a conversion 'how to' thread in the relevant section, make sure you become a paid member to access it, good read.
Speaking of engines and considering you are thinking to go fully forged it'd be pointless to pay the premium for a 250 one, VVT won't be working anyway (unless of course the tuners have now managed to get it working? Someone to please correct me if I'm wrong). I wouldn't personally go crazy in a quest for an R26 box (no fit for the M3RS as suggested), its diff doesn't work miracles, it just helps things. I'd buy a dirty cheap megane box, strip, rebuild and fit a proper plated diff. This is a must IMHO.
Chassis doesn't need strengthening, it's great. Of course half cage would certainly be beneficial. Remember, you are building a fast road car with the intention of driving it in the famous Greek roads, last thing you need is a stiff and rock solid chassis. I'd spend my money on a bespoke damping - full coilover - suspension instead with compliance in mind.
Brakes, echoing Sean. OEM 4 pots are more than fine assuming they are in top notch shape. Lots of available compounds to choose from. Servo is also fine but need to be protected by the increased temps, they've been failures. But again - and as mentioned in the Greek forum - it's on the other side here, over the manifold.
Your budget is high which is always a good thing and cars here in the island are cheap. Another shout would be to wait for a megged clio to go on sale and buy it, bring it to your standards here in the UK to any of the above mentioned tuners (ED are also traders in here), then drive it (or transport it) to Greece and swap the whole lot across as labour there is dirty cheap. Just an idea
We'll also be in touch over the phone mate, now go and work on that Ultima! When would shakedown day be then?
As said, a lot of people in here have done the conversion, admittedly quite a few who further pushed the boundaries have sold and moved on - however their projects are still active. I believe a guy named Andy (running a 400bhp Clio) created a conversion 'how to' thread in the relevant section, make sure you become a paid member to access it, good read.
Speaking of engines and considering you are thinking to go fully forged it'd be pointless to pay the premium for a 250 one, VVT won't be working anyway (unless of course the tuners have now managed to get it working? Someone to please correct me if I'm wrong). I wouldn't personally go crazy in a quest for an R26 box (no fit for the M3RS as suggested), its diff doesn't work miracles, it just helps things. I'd buy a dirty cheap megane box, strip, rebuild and fit a proper plated diff. This is a must IMHO.
Chassis doesn't need strengthening, it's great. Of course half cage would certainly be beneficial. Remember, you are building a fast road car with the intention of driving it in the famous Greek roads, last thing you need is a stiff and rock solid chassis. I'd spend my money on a bespoke damping - full coilover - suspension instead with compliance in mind.
Brakes, echoing Sean. OEM 4 pots are more than fine assuming they are in top notch shape. Lots of available compounds to choose from. Servo is also fine but need to be protected by the increased temps, they've been failures. But again - and as mentioned in the Greek forum - it's on the other side here, over the manifold.
Your budget is high which is always a good thing and cars here in the island are cheap. Another shout would be to wait for a megged clio to go on sale and buy it, bring it to your standards here in the UK to any of the above mentioned tuners (ED are also traders in here), then drive it (or transport it) to Greece and swap the whole lot across as labour there is dirty cheap. Just an idea
We'll also be in touch over the phone mate, now go and work on that Ultima! When would shakedown day be then?
Ultima?!?! If that's yours @PaladinRS4 then I'll be even more jealous.
One thing I forgot to add was the driveshafts - early megane ones are a straight fit, if you want brand new you have to fit half clio (hub end) half megane (gearbox end) shafts as the later megane shafts have a taper at the hub end which fouls on the clio hub and they don't fit properly.
Someone in Spain made the vvt work with a mk2 ecu but he wouldn't tell anyone how he did it!
Lastly, as im sure you're aware, getting heat out the engine bay is as important if not more so than getting cool air in. Removing the rubber strip from the scuttle panel helps, but some bonnet louvres and even some well placed holes in the scuttle would help even more. Ceramic coating the turbo, manifold, and boost pipes would be ideal.
One thing I forgot to add was the driveshafts - early megane ones are a straight fit, if you want brand new you have to fit half clio (hub end) half megane (gearbox end) shafts as the later megane shafts have a taper at the hub end which fouls on the clio hub and they don't fit properly.
Someone in Spain made the vvt work with a mk2 ecu but he wouldn't tell anyone how he did it!
Lastly, as im sure you're aware, getting heat out the engine bay is as important if not more so than getting cool air in. Removing the rubber strip from the scuttle panel helps, but some bonnet louvres and even some well placed holes in the scuttle would help even more. Ceramic coating the turbo, manifold, and boost pipes would be ideal.
Yeah the Ultron car is a different project..but it's mine...more on this at a later stage!..
Yianni I agree, compliance is key on our crap roads and I am with you on the strip and rebuilt m2 gearbox.
The option of transfer a ready made megclio is also very nice..never thought of it.
I 'll be a proper member and read the thread you quoted.
Sean air dissipation out of the engine bay..spot on..I am all over this topic as I did face it with the rs4. For the clio I have plans for carbon parts specially on roof and bonnet so air vents (subtle is the key word here) is a must
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Yianni I agree, compliance is key on our crap roads and I am with you on the strip and rebuilt m2 gearbox.
The option of transfer a ready made megclio is also very nice..never thought of it.
I 'll be a proper member and read the thread you quoted.
Sean air dissipation out of the engine bay..spot on..I am all over this topic as I did face it with the rs4. For the clio I have plans for carbon parts specially on roof and bonnet so air vents (subtle is the key word here) is a must
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Mark_L
Platinum Member
No real need for a carbon bonnet as the std Ali bonnet weighs next to nothing.
I've done a trial of some holes in a bonnet above the frame to keep the water from the engine bay itself, you probably won't have these issue's in Greece.
I'm Just starting my conversion but using the std 225 engine, 265 t15 turbo and actuator, 630cc injectors etc should be good for 300/300 in this form which will be fine for a mainly road car. May be build a forged engine in the future.
The help on this forum has been great.
I've done a trial of some holes in a bonnet above the frame to keep the water from the engine bay itself, you probably won't have these issue's in Greece.
I'm Just starting my conversion but using the std 225 engine, 265 t15 turbo and actuator, 630cc injectors etc should be good for 300/300 in this form which will be fine for a mainly road car. May be build a forged engine in the future.
The help on this forum has been great.
Good morning Mark!spot on the info on the bonnet..I don't like the colour difference between bonnet and car. I had an M3 CSL some cars ago and was ok-ish with te carbon roof!No real need for a carbon bonnet as the std Ali bonnet weighs next to nothing.
I've done a trial of some holes in a bonnet above the frame to keep the water from the engine bay itself, you probably won't have these issue's in Greece.
I'm Just starting my conversion but using the std 225 engine, 265 t15 turbo and actuator, 630cc injectors etc should be good for 300/300 in this form which will be fine for a mainly road car. May be build a forged engine in the future.
The help on this forum has been great.
Good luck on the conversion!
I had asked a forum member already about the megan parts he is selling. Waiting on answer to start the project. I will fully build the motor for max bhp and cut down on power from turbo pressure. I also see the magic number for twisties and track to be around 300 but on a straight line you can always click the button for some 400-450 3rd-4th gear fun
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