Stud Kits

petercronin

Paid Member
I've been asking around and having a few conversations on Facebook about stud kits. I was debating between two,

This:
http://www.elite-d.co.uk/race-wheel-stud-conversion-kit-14-x-1-5-renault/

Or this:
http://www.pure-motorsport.co.uk/cl...-m14-stud-conversion-kit-with-steel-nuts.html

My concern was why is the elite on almost half the price of the pms but it seems people run them without issues. So I was almost about to buy them and then somebody said that they had problems fitting wheels once they're on as the lip on the stud doesn't allow the week to sit flush on the hub. This is standard wheels we're talking about the cup racer wheels have a countersunk hole to allow them to fit.

Has anybody experienced this with any stud kits before? Also if anybody has any other comments/suggestions I'd be happy to hear them.

Thanks
 
I'd say you wont go far wrong with the studs from elite

Bare in mind that if you fit the same length studs front and rear that you will have more thread through the nut at the rear than the front (by about 7mm - the thickness of the front brake disc bell)

We use 90mm studs at the front and 82mm studs at the rear, these allow up to 20mm spacers with standard speedlines

Us a high temperature locitite when installing

These make wheel changes a doddle
 
I'd say you wont go far wrong with the studs from elite

Bare in mind that if you fit the same length studs front and rear that you will have more thread through the nut at the rear than the front (by about 7mm - the thickness of the front brake disc bell)

We use 90mm studs at the front and 82mm studs at the rear, these allow up to 20mm spacers with standard speedlines

Us a high temperature locitite when installing

These make wheel changes a doddle
Thanks for the reply, so I take it you've had no issues with the wheel not making contact with the hub using the standard speedline wheels?
 
No issues, we are using hubcentric slip on spacers but I cant see that would make any difference
Maybe the spacers have a slightly larger hole that fits over the lip on the studs. I might just order some and see where I want to go from there, either get spacers or countersink the back of the wheel bolt holes slightly.
 
I'd say you wont go far wrong with the studs from elite

Bare in mind that if you fit the same length studs front and rear that you will have more thread through the nut at the rear than the front (by about 7mm - the thickness of the front brake disc bell)

We use 90mm studs at the front and 82mm studs at the rear, these allow up to 20mm spacers with standard speedlines

Us a high temperature locitite when installing

These make wheel changes a doddle

Hi Paul,

If you were buying for no spacers, would you opt for 75mm front / 68mm rear then?
I've no plans to use spacers and I don't really want studs that poke out far.

Cheers
 
Hi Paul,

If you were buying for no spacers, would you opt for 75mm front / 68mm rear then?
I've no plans to use spacers and I don't really want studs that poke out far.

Cheers

Rich

If they are closest to 90 / 82 less the 20mm spacer then they should be fine

Paul
 
The bulge in the stud will not pass through the wheel hole. A small countersink in the back of the wheel should sort it or sand a little from the bulge or run a shim spacer.
Alright then, thank you for checking that. I'll have to have a think about what to do.
 
I bought the Elite D kit - I got 90 and 82mm. I just did a trial fit, there will indeed need to be a countersink put in the back of the wheels (only the rears) for those not running spacers. I bought them so I can run silverstones on track, and standard wheels + 18mm spacer on the road.
 
I bought the Elite D kit - I got 90 and 82mm. I just did a trial fit, there will indeed need to be a countersink put in the back of the wheels (only the rears) for those not running spacers. I bought them so I can run silverstones on track, and standard wheels + 18mm spacer on the road.
Good info thanks for that. I take it the lip on the front stud ends up covered by the brake disc bell and therefore doesn't interfere with the wheel?
 
Yeah exactly - on the front it appears front, though the rears will have the issue due to the lip without spacer. I'm planning on countersinking all the wheels I have - I'd not like to be stuck in an emergency :smile:
 
Yeah exactly - on the front it appears front, though the rears will have the issue due to the lip without spacer. I'm planning on countersinking all the wheels I have - I'd not like to be stuck in an emergency :smile:
I'm starting to think I might go down this route too rather than buy spacers. Are you planning on getting a proper countersink tool or just using a big drill bit? I haven't bought any studs yet but looking at the pictures I'm guessing the lip is around 2mm larger than the stud, so 16mm diameter - ish??
 
The bulge in the stud will not pass through the wheel hole. A small countersink in the back of the wheel should sort it or sand a little from the bulge or run a shim spacer.

Does the issue only apply to the Elite kit?
I've bought the TPI kit and wondering if I'm gonna have the same issue when I come to get them fitted.
 
Does the issue only apply to the Elite kit?
I've bought the TPI kit and wondering if I'm gonna have the same issue when I come to get them fitted.
Don't know is the honest answer

Best whip a wheel off and check, it'll only be a problem at the rear.
 
I'd say you wont go far wrong with the studs from elite

Bare in mind that if you fit the same length studs front and rear that you will have more thread through the nut at the rear than the front (by about 7mm - the thickness of the front brake disc bell)

We use 90mm studs at the front and 82mm studs at the rear, these allow up to 20mm spacers with standard speedlines

Us a high temperature locitite when installing

These make wheel changes a doddle

Do you have any pictures of how far these studs stick out the wheels with 20mm spacers.

Regards